MURTER & KORNATI NATIONAL PARK
INTRO
Murter is one of the many lovely islands off of Croatia’s Dalmatian coast. The island has four major towns: Murter, Tisno, Betina, and Jezera. Murter is the most populous and is where most tourists stay. This is the only Croatian island we’ve been to so can’t offer any direct comparisons, but I’d note that even though we were there in high season, the island had a very peaceful, slow vibe and didn’t feel overcrowded.
Kornati is a marine national park that protects the Kornati islands, islets, and reefs, as well as the 65 mi² (167 km²) ocean around them (75% of the park is ocean!). Kornati is known for its "crowns," the steep, dramatic cliff faces that rise as high as 82 meters above the ocean's surface. It’s a really beautiful place and going on a tour there felt like a quintessential Croatian experience, complete with island-hopping, local wine and spirits, and lots of time in the aquamarine water.
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
Duration: 2-4 days. Seeing Kornati National Park by boat requires a full day trip, and then you’ll want at least a couple days to explore the rest of what the charming island of Murter has to offer.
When to go: For ideal weather, the best time to go is May-September (late spring through summer in Croatia).
Accommodations + facilities: There are many guesthouses and Airbnbs on the island of Murter. We stayed right between the towns of Murter and Betina at a cozy, retro eighties Airbnb. Besides having wonderful hosts, the Airbnb is across the street from two beaches and for a group of 3, this was the most affordable option we could find. Many travelers who visit Murter island opt to stay in the town of Tisno, where many Croatian festivals take place over the summer.
If you want to stay in Kornati National Park, there are fisherman cottages available for rent across the islands. We found these listed on Airbnb, Booking.com, and also travel agencies such as this one. These all looked beautiful, but it’s worth noting that most require an additional ~$190 (170€) fee beyond the accommodation cost to transfer guests from Murter to the islands. For this reason, we opted to stay on Murter and take a day trip out to Kornati — but a stay in the remote cottages is now on our bucket list!
Food + water: There are many great restaurants in Murter, everything from Michelin Guide restaurants to cheap food stands. There are also a couple big grocery stores, so it’s easy to stock up on groceries and cook on your own. If you take a day trip out to Kornati, chances are it’ll include food + drinks (and not just water… hello 9 a.m. shots of rakija).
Guide or no guide: No guide is needed to explore the island of Murter on foot, bike, or kayak (both availale for rental). To see Kornati National Park, unless you have a lot of boating experience and feel comfortable navigating across the open ocean with a rental vessel, your best bet is to go on a guided tour. You can find them online, stop by a tour agency in town, or walk out to the Murter piers.
Difficulty: Most of what people do in Murter and Kornati is not difficult: relax at the beach, ride on a boat, snorkel around, and take in the incredible beauty. The only activity we did that was challenging was our self-guided kayak tour — we stayed relatively close to shore, but ocean kayaking is still exerting, so be sure to consider your experience level and endurance when planning your route if you rent a kayak!
Make sure you have: mask and snorkel, or buy them elsewhere in Croatia before you get here. They were way more expensive once we got to the island, and you’ll want them to explore the clear waters!
Primary costs: Our major costs for seeing Murter and Kornati National Park were as follows:
Kornati National Park tour: $50 per person — this was a full-day boat tour from Murter out to the Kornati islands; the price included lunch (fresh fish cheffed up right on the boat), local spirits, wine, the national park entry ticket, and snorkeling gear. It was quite a way to explore the park!
Half-day kayak rentals: $20 per person — this included pick-up + drop-off so we could follow a point-to-point self-guided tour around the island.
Airbnb: we booked this Airbnb for 3 people for $280 for 6 days/5 nights
THINGS TO DO
Tour Kornati National Park: we had a super fun time on our boat tour to Kornati National Park. It’s a full day event — most tours leave from Marina Hramina (the Murter marina) around 9 a.m. and get back to town around 5/5:30 p.m. They include lunch, drinks, swim stops, and of course, incredible views of the Kornati islands, as well as a stop or two on the islands to take in the views from shore. You can book a tour online or at one of the many travel agencies around Murter.
Kayak around Murter island: this was one of our favorite days in Croatia! We rented kayaks from a local tour agency, which included a drop-off and pick-up service. We did a self-guided tour around Murter island, starting at Kosirina Bay and ending at Jezera Marina. You can see our approximate route on the map at the start of this guide.
Grab a sunset dinner on Slanica Beach: Slanica Beach is a beautiful bay walking distance from Murter’s town center. There are a few great restaurants around the bay, and it’s an amazing place to catch the sunset.
Check out Betina and the Museum of Wooden Shipbuilding: this niche museum may not sound like everyone’s cup of tea, but it was a really cool way to learn about the history of Murter island — and the unique Betina gajeta, a traditional ship design among working families of the Dalmatian coast. The museum is located in Betina, which is walkable from Murter, so heading over also gives you a great chance to see the smaller town of Betina.
Explore the town of Murter on foot: The town of Murter has a lot of charm, so make sure to spend some of your time checking it out. Summer nights are especially fun, as the small town bustles with visitors, live music, and delicious food!
Map of Kornati National Park — click to enlarge
GETTING THERE
The island of Murter is connected to mainland Croatia via a bridge, so getting there is quite easy by bus or car. Buses run from across the country and from across Europe to Zadar and Split, the nearest big cities to Murter. From either city, you can take an easy bus ride to Murter. You can book tickets online through FlixBus or Arriva. Another option is renting a car from Zadar, Split, or another major city and driving. Once you’re on Murter island, we’d recommend staying in Murter town if you don’t have a car, given it’s easy to navigate by foot and a convenient location when leaving for tours and excursions.
To get to Kornati National Park, you can 1) join an organized tour, 2) hire someone to take you over on their boat, or 3) rent a boat, get a permit, and travel the ~2 hours by boat from shore. There are a lot of places that rent boats in Murter, but be warned that only people comfortable navigating the open ocean should take this option!
Last updated: 31 August 2022
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